Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Batch #4 - 65% Dark Chocolate - Peru Oro Verde Criollo 2015

Batch #4 is the second Peruvian bean for the special Chocolate Alchemy had a few weeks ago.  I was very happy with the taste of the first bean I tried: Peru Chuncho 2016-17.  The chocolate from that bean had a noticeable apple tone.  It was really unique and delicious. 

Chocolate Alchemy labels this Peru Oro Verde Criollo bean as "a light balanced cocoa bean with notes of soft tropical fruits and nuts."  The more detailed write-up says that the flavors are vibrant and dynamic.  Fruits galore: banana, strawberry, plum, mango, and other general tropical fruit flavors, but no one flavor dominates so you get a very soft fruitiness.   



I can't wait to try it!

Saturday, January 28, 2017 - 9:00 pm - Batch #4 begins....

After the issue with husks in the last batch, I pick through this bag but found very little in the way of husks.  I ended up with 912 grams of nibs.  I put 1 cup into the melanger and let her rip.  I also had to keep the cover on the melanger because it was spitting out nibs left and right.  I even got one in the eye.  Talk about hurt!!



I think I may have added to many nibs at once. The melanger got seriously bogged down...


9:15 pm - I had to added 40g of melted cocoa butter to keep it happy...
 

The melanger was okay for a short while, but it started straining again as I added more and more nibs.


 

9:30 pm - All the nibs are in but the melanger is struggling again.  I didn't want to add any more cocoa butter, so I took out my "chocolate" hair dryer, and heated the nibs so they would release the cocoa butter locked inside.


9:45 pm - The mass is flowing somewhat, but still very chunky.  The granite wheels seems to be jump and skipping a lot.  I guess I added the nibs too quickly.  Lesson learned.


10:15 pm - I've been sitting in a room next to the melanger, and at about 10:15 I noticed that the melanger was running smoothly.  No more jumps and skips due to large nibs.  I removed the plastic cover so the moisture and volatiles could escape.   I also put my improvised bug guard over the meleanger.  Don't want any nasty stuff falling into the open bowl.


Sunday 5:00 am - I let the melanger run all night, and by 5:00 am on Sunday everything was flowing smoothly.

10:15 am - After 13 hours of run time I added the sugar.

11:40 am - After an hour of refining the sugar, the mixture still looks grainy but it feels smooth in the mouth.  Taste Test: You can really taste the fruit in this one, and there is a sharp bite at the end.  Not bitter, just a bite.

1:11 pm -  Off while we leave the house.  16 hours of processing time so far.
5:15 pm - Back on.
9:30 pm - Off.  20 hours of processing time so far.  At this point I would normally add the cocoa butter, but I ran out.  Oops.  I have some scheduled to arrive on Monday.  Thank you, Chocolate Alchemy!

Monday, 9:00 am - The chocolate has hardened to a solid block overnight, so I had to use the hair dryer to melt it.  It took about 30 minutes.

9:30am - Everything melted, finally able to turn the machine back on.

3:15 pm - Yeah, the cocoa butter has arrived.  Added 234 g of Natural Cocoa Butter and let her rip.  I'm going to give it about 4 hours to incorporate everything.  I can't wait to taste it, and see how it differs from the Peru Chuncho I did last week.

Monday, January 30, 7:45 pm - Finished !!  Approximately 30 hours of processing. 

So how does this Peru Oro Verde Criollo  taste?  In a word: Fruit-Bomb.  (Or is that two words?)  Lots of fruity flavors, and sweet.  I can't wait to temper and mold this stuff to see how it tastes once it is solid.


One thing that concerns me is the presence of a oily looking sheen on top of the chocolate.  (The sheen doesn't photograph well so I didn't include a picture.)  I wonder if the melanger is leaking some lubricant???  I will have to read the manual.





Monday, January 30, 2017

Batch #3 – 60% Dark Chocolate - Peru Chuncho Criollo 2016-17

The Chocolate Alchemist had a special on a multi-pack of 4 Peruvian beans, so of course I bought some. I have quite a pile of beans on my To-Do list, and hopefully I can get to them before they start going bad. Do roasted cocoa nibs go bad? -- I need to investigate that.

So Batch #3 is a Peru Chuncho Criollo Organic 2016-17. It is listed as a Criollo with an aroma of warm, juicy apple pie, and a clean earthiness. I’m not very good when it comes to identifying the nuances of chocolate tones, so I’ll just have to take the Alchemist’s word for it.



For this batch I purchased roasted nibs. As yet I don’t have the equipment to roast, crack, and winnow the beans so I’m just buying the beans in their final state.

Initially I started this batch with a 65% cocoa ratio ( 50% nibs and 15% cocoa butter), and 35% sugar.

Saturday, January 21, 2017, 5:15 pm – Lift-off of Batch #3 –  I put 1 cup of nibs into the melanger, and being an adventurous Chocolate Maker I didn't add any melted cocoa butter just so to see what would happen. The machine wasn't happy.  It was spitting out pieces of nibs left and right, and just seemed to be struggling.


I shut it down, added 50g of melted cocoa butter, and started up again.  It worked much better this time. I also found that this batch of cocoa nibs had a lot of husks still attached to the nibs.  I spent almost an hour carefully picking through the nibs.  I guess this is why the Chocolate Alchemist recommends using the Champion Juicer.  The Juicer pulverizes the nibs but also removed any stray husks at the same time.   I have read that legally you can't have more than 0.5% of husk in chocolate.  Additionally, the husk will give the chocolate a very undesirable taste (or so I've read). This is the first time I've notice husk in nibs, so there must be something different about these beans that makes the husk harder to detach.



6:20 pm – All the nibs are finally picked clean and are happily churning in the melanger.

7:40 pm – The mass in the melanger is very fluid, almost as fluid as water. And BITTER!! I know there is no sugar in mix, but still it is bitter beyond words.



10:30 pm – After four hours of refining this stuff is still wickedly bitter.  I don't like bitter, so it was very noticeable to me.

Sunday 12:30 am – After seven hours of run time I added the sugar. I read somewhere that some makers allow the cocoa to refine and conch up to 20 hours before adding the sugar. Their reasoning makes sense. Sugar can absorb the odors and taste of things it comes in contact with, so you should allow the nasty acids and moisture to vaporize out of the cocoa mass before adding the sugar. I didn’t wait 20 hours, but instead I added the sugar after 7 hours.


2:30 am – I woke to check on the progress and give it a taste test. The taste is still nasty bitter (even with the sugar), but I’m starting to get a bit of apple tones. Also no grit. After just 2 hours of refining all the sugar has been ground down to nothing.

5:30 am – More apple tones and the bitterness seems to be fading. 12 hours run time.

9:45 am – 16 hours in. Not happy with the taste, still too bitter for me. I decide to add more sugar and take it from 65% cacao to 60%.

10:30 am – In under an hour most of the grit from the second addition of sugar is gone. Not completely smooth but close.

12:30 pm – Leaving the house so turned off the melanger. Taste test finds that it still has a slight bitter after taste, but not nearly as bad as before. Mixture is also getting a little thicker, not nearly as fluid as earlier.

2:45 pm – Back on.

5:50 pm – Added melted cocoa butter and soy lecithin.

6:30 pm – Mixture is very fluid and liquid-y. Back looking like flowing water in the melanger. The taste is getting very mellow.


11:30 pm – 28 hours of run time. I had wanted the batch to run for 30 hours but I woke up at 11:30 pm (I misread the clock and thought it was 1:30 am), and just started unloading the melanger. I put everything in plastic bowls until I could temper and mold the chocolate.   The bulk of the chocolate went into a large bowl, and about 12 ozs went into a smaller bowl that I could use for taste testing.





Final Ratio/Recipe for Batch #3 :
60% Dark Peru Chuncho Criollo Organic 2016-17

Cocoa Nibs - 870g - 45%
Cocoa Butter (mix of Natural and Deodorized Dominican Republic) 290g - 15%
Sugar - 773g - 40%
Soy Lecithin - 2g - 0.1%

36.2% Fat; 



Sunday January 29, 2017 - Tempering & Molding of Batch #3

Using the 12 ounces of chocolate I had reserved for taste testing I did/attempted a quickie tempering job.  I just heated up the chocolate and threw some Silk in when it reached 94 degrees.  The temperature of the chocolate dropped rapidly after I added the Silk, so I really wasn't surprised when I got bloom.  I was just  testing three new molds that I just bought so I didn't care.  I knew I was going to re-melt the chocolate.  My new molds are: 20g tasting squares, a 1 ounce bar, and a 2 ounce bar all with a lovely cocoa bean motif.

So  after setting up I noticed that the bloom got worse as the bar got thicker.  The 20g tasting squares had no bloom, and the 2 ounce bars were covered in it.  I guess it has something to do with the rate of cooling.  Interesting.  I need to read up more on bloom, and get me a tempering machine.  (I think I have said that 100 times already.)


And how about the taste???  Well it was really, really good.  There is a real sense of baked apples.  Almost warm and spicy tasting.  There is also a bite at the end.  It is not bitterness, but it is something that dances around your mouth and grabs your attention.

I'm going to bring it to work and see what my taste testers there think.

Sunday, January 29, 2017

Yikes!! Are you afraid of bugs falling into your refining chocolate liquor?

Have you ever gotten a bug in your melanger as it was running? Do you throw the whole batch of chocolate liquor away?

On my last batch of Bean-to-Bar Chocolate I was in the early stages of refining so I had the cover off the melanger. (You need to leave the cover off so the volatile vapors and moisture can dissipate.) I was watching the granite wheels pulverize the nibs when I saw something out of the corner of my eye.

It was one of those big Daddy Longlegs mosquitoes (Crane Fly) flying listlessly around the room.

I freaked out!

I didn't mind the bug itself, it was harmless, but I didn’t want it falling into my chocolate!!

I shooed the mosquito out of the room and started thinking about ways to protect the precious chocolate inside the open bowl.  It need some kind of canopy that would allow air to circulate but keep the bugs away.

The next day on a trip to Wally-World I found this:


It is a collapsible laundry basket made from a tight mesh fabric. It unzips and fits right over the melanger. The mesh is open enough to let the vapors escape, but tight enough to keep the bugs out. I also bought some fabric with a even tighter weave than the basket, but the fabric was a pain to keep on the basket.  If I see any bugs getting through the mesh of the laundry basket I will have to take the extra  step and sew a fabric bag to go over the laundry basket.

So what about you? Do you have nightmares about bugs falling into your chocolate while it is refining?

Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Batch #2.5 Honduras Wampusirpi with Satsuma Zested Sugar

2016 saw a banner crop of Satsuma in South Louisiana. I picked about 8 satsumas from my poor little tree, and my Aunt picked 100 times that much from her tree.   I was bring box after box of satsumas to my happy coworkers just so the fruit wouldn't go to waste.

 

So with this overabundance of satsumas I had to find creative ways to use them. I put them in pound cake, cookies and scones, and then I decided try them in chocolate!! I had previously zested a few cups of sugar, so I figured I would add the zested sugar to the melanger and see what would happen!!!


I melted some (500g) of the Batch #2 65% Dark Honduras Wampusirpi that I had made a few days ago, and added 142 grams of the zested sugar. I was afraid that the moisture heavy satsuma sugar would make the liquid chocolate seize, but everything turned out well. There was a lot of crunching when I slowly started to add the sugar, but things quickly settled down.


After about 3 hours of refining I added an additional 34g of melted cocoa butter, and let it refine for another hour. Based on what was already in the 61% Dark of Batch #2, I figured my additions of sugar and cocoa butter Batch #2.5 ended up being 50% ( 36% cocoa liquor, 14% added cocoa butter, and 50% sugar).

To temper I used the Cocoa Butter Silk from Chocolate Alchemy, but sadly I got streaks of bloom once again. Tempering is really my Achilles heel.


But streaks aside, how did it taste with the addition of the Satsuma???

Well honestly, I didn't notice a difference between the zested and unzested chocolate.  I was sad.  I thought the zest would give it a more citrus flavor.   But no such luck.  It was good, but there was not citrus pop.

I also tried tempering the chocolate again, and this time I had better success.  I used a different thermometer, and put the mold in the refrigerator for a few minutes after the chocolates were tapped and allowed to setup for ten minutes are so.



I really need to figure out why the tempering works one day and flops the next day... 

Saturday, January 14, 2017

Batch #2 - Tempering Issues Resolved (or maybe not)

So after my many failed tempering attempts I took a step back and did more reading. Thankfully I found a few things that could have caused my tempering fails…

First thing I re-read was the part on molding in The Science of Chocolate. Sadly I got the whole “warming” thing wrong. In the book it says to: pre-heat the empty molds to within a few degrees of the temperature of the tempered chocolate before the start of the molding process. I heated the molds correctly, but stupid me kept on heating the molds even after the chocolate was poured in.

I was also warming the air, thinking that would keep the chocolate out of the temperature range that the Type IV crystals would crystallize, but this was horribly wrong. Apparently you want the ambient room temperature to be 68-70 F when molding the chocolate. Some folks even say that a short stint in the refrigerator (5-10) will encourage the Type V crystals to grow faster and thus improve the temper.

But my biggest Ah-Ha moment came while reading some of the Chocolate Alchemist’s Q&A on Tempering. In some of his “Musing” he talks about "Over Tempered" chocolate. Over tempered is when you have too many Type V crystals in the chocolate, and the chocolate gets very hard. (The Alchemist calls them “Types” rather than “Forms”.) When tempering you are not looking for 100% Type V, instead you want a mixture of Type V and Type IV that will give the most pleasing chocolate eating experience and NO BLOOM.

One thing that will create too many Type V crystals is too much seed. I had been using Cocoa Butter Silk (super tempered cocoa butter) to seed my chocolate, and I added the Silk at a ratio of 2%+ of total weight. The Ah-Ha was when I re-read the instructions and saw that I should have been using 0.5% to 1%. I had been using way too much Silk!! The overabundance of seed was causing all kinds of problems.

So I re-melted my Batch #2 chocolate and re-tempered using 0.75% Silk. I also turned on the AC and lowered the temperature in the house to 70 F.

And guess what ---- IT WORKED!!!


No bloom in sight, lovely dark chocolate color, robust snap, and best of all, the taste and mouth feel. The chocolate melted quickly in my mouth, dissolving into a silky puddle of mellow, buttery chocolate.


I may get the hang of this Chocolate Making stuff yet….

Saturday, January 7, 2017

Batch #2 - Honduras Wampusirpi - 61% Dark Chocolate

Batch #2 of my Chocolate Making Journey is chocolate made from the Honduras Wampusirpi 2015/16 Direct Trade bean.

Batch #2 Recipe (61% Dark)

Nibs 555g; 47 % (Fat Content 555g x 54% = 299.7g)
Cocoa Butter (Deodorized) 142g; 12% (Fat Content 142g x 100% = 142g)
Cocoa Butter Silk (seed for tempering) 24g; 2% (Fat Content 24g x 100% = 24g)
Sugar 461g;  39% (Fat Content 0g)
Lecithin 1 g

Total: 1180g (Total Fat Content: 465.7g / 1180g = 39.5 %)

For my second batch of chocolate I used the roasted Honduras Wampusirpi nibs that came in the Apprentice Kit that I purchased from Chocolate Alchemy.  Among other things the kit contained 1 pound each of roasted and unroasted beans and nibs. I used the roasted nibs in this batch along with some of the roasted beans that I cracked and winnowed by hand.


And let me tell you that cracking and winnowing by hand is a tedious and time consuming process. It is bad if you just have to do a few ounces, but almost impossible if you have more than a pound or two.  I really, really need a piece of equipment to automate the process. In the end it took me about 30 minutes to cracking and extra 100g or 3.5 ounces of beans.  Behold, the fruits of my hand winnowing - large, intact pieces of shell.


One major question I had from the first batch was, Is pre-grinding the nibs or can I just put the coarse nibs directly into the melanger? The manufacturer of my melanger, Premier, said it was possible, so I gave it a try. I added a handful of nibs and about 50 g of melted cocoa butter to the bowl, placed the cover on top of the bowl, and pushed the power button. And to my delight...

 IT WORKED!!!!

I was overjoyed with my finding.  If I can avoid using a blender to pre-grind the beans, I won't lose a 3-4 precious ounces of product to the blender's nooks and crannies.  For a small Micro Chocolate Maker, every ounce of product is a huge hit to the bottom line.

Batch #2 Start time: Dec 30, 2016, 7:30 pm

7:39 pm - A few minutes into the first batch of nib grinding.


The motor and the granite wheels had no trouble pulverizing the nibs and generating a coarse paste. The granite wheels did spit up a lot of nibs on the side of the bowl and the plastic cover, so I was glad I had the sense to put the top on before I pressed the power button.

After just a minute or so of churning, the first handful of nibs were ground down enough that I felt confident enough to throw in another handful of nibs. I got into a groove: throwing in a handful, watching them turn to mush, tossing in another handful. It did take a while, but after about 45 minutes I finally had all 555 grams of nibs in the bowl and refining portion of the melanging was doing its thing.

8:21pm; run time: 46 minutes



Another change I made from Batch #1 to Batch #2 was when the bulk of the cocoa butter was added. In the first batch I put all the cocoa butter in at the beginning, but after reading the book The Science of Chocolate I realized that this was wrong. According to The Science of Chocolate the bulk of the cocoa butter should be added at the very end of the liquid conching stage. Apparently the shearing action of the refiner works better when the nibs are in thick paste form, and the more shear you have the quicker the particles will get down to the ideal 20-30 micron size. If you add the cocoa butter too soon it makes the particles slippery, and the shearing forces and the ability to refine the particles down to the correct size is greatly reduced.

Lecithin is another ingredient that The Science of Chocolate says should be added at the end. Lecithin is an emulsifier (specifically a surface active agent) that can bind to water molecules. Part of the refining/milling process is to allow the natural moisture in the nibs (and milk solids) to evaporate. If the lecithin is added while moisture is still present in the chocolate liquor, the lecithin will bind to the water molecules and prevent their escape. And as everyone knows, water and chocolate liquor are not a good combination.

So for the first few hours of refining all that went into the melanger's bowl were the nibs and 50 grams of melted cocoa butter. In hindsight I'm not sure I needed any cocoa butter at all. (Note: after a few more batches I decided that a little bit of melted cocoa butter at the beginning is VERY helpful.)

After about an hour of processing just the nibs, I added the granulated sugar.

9:33 pm, before sugar added


9:34 pm, after sugar added


At 10:27 pm (a little less than a hour of refining the sugar) it still looked a little grainy.


I let the sugar and nibs refine/mill till about 11:30 pm then I shut the machine down for the night.

I woke up at 3:30 am early on Dec 31, 2016 and went to check on my chocolate. After sitting for about 4 hours the chocolate was still soft. In my sleepy, groggy state I decided to take a chance and run the machine while I slept.  I’m a very light sleeper so I knew I would hear the machine if anything went wrong.

I got up at 6:00 am and everything looked good. The motor of the machine was still cool, and the chocolate was spinning happily. I gave it a taste test and found the chocolate very mild and mellow, with hardly any astringent after tones. The Chocolate Alchemist describes this bean as buttery and soft with subtle, bright dried fruit.  Honestly I didn't taste any of that, but I don't have a very discerning palate.  I need to work on that.

I shut the machine down at 8:30 am while I went to yoga class. Total run time so far was: 3 hours and 45 minutes.

Dec 31, 2016, 11:30 am – Machine was turned back on. Chocolate still liquid so no need to heat it up.

Dec 31, 2016, 6:30 pm  - The remaining cocoa butter and the lecithin were added.



Happy New Year!!! We shot off some fireworks at midnight, but the weather was so bad it was a wasted effort. Over the course of 36 hours I think we got about 8 inches of rain. It was a wet, wet, New Year’s Eve and Day.

Jan 1, 2017, 12:45 am - Stopped the processing. Total run time 20 hours. I poured the liquid chocolate into a bowl and put it aside. I have a big lunch for family every New Year’s Day so I didn’t have time to temper and mold it. I covered the bowl and just set it aside.

January 7, 2017 – Time to Temper.

The chocolate has been sitting for over a week.  I didn’t let it sit this long on purpose (I just didn’t have time to work with it), but I don’t think sitting un-tempered hurts the chocolate. In fact some people say they “age” their chocolate on purpose. (Note: I have since learned that the "ageing" must be done after the chocolate is set into bars.  Melting and re-tempering will remove the effects of the aging. I have read that the chocolate doesn't develop it full flavor until about 3 weeks after it has set.)

So melting this big block of chocolate came first, then I split it in half because it was too much too work with all at once.

With the first batch I used the Cocoa Butter Silk method of seeding where I just stabilize the chocolate at 94 F, add the Silk to chocolate...


... stir the Silk into the chocolate for three minutes, let the temperature stabilize to 92 F, and finally pour the 92 F chocolate into the mold. I read in The Science of Chocolate that cold-ish molds and a chilly room can cause tempering problems, so I heated the molds a little on a heating mat, and set up a small space heater to warm up the air around the work area.

NOTE;  I have since learned that heating up the molds and the room is VERY VERY WRONG.  Don't do this.  Thanks to the Chocolate Alchemist for all his help and advice!!!  Apparently my interpretation of the word "chilly" is not what the author of The Science of Chocolate was talking about.  To me anything under 70 degrees is chilly!! )


I watched the temperature of the molds and the chocolate closely.  Once poured into the mold, the chocolate stayed above 81 F for over an hour.  I thought keeping the chocolate above the temperature that Form IV crystals form would insure that my chocolate tempered correctly, but sadly all this careful temperature control produced the worse tempering job yet. 



At this point I'm stumped.  I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong with the tempering.  I'm going to have to email the Chocolate Alchemist and see what he thinks.

And worst of all, I was really disappointed with this batch.  The chocolate had hardly any flavor, and it also left a slight waxy feel in my mouth.  My horrible tempering job really did a number on this chocolate.  My poor Honduras Wampusirpi beans were probably crying in disperse at my poor attempts to them into chocolate.

I'm quickly realizing that making GOOD homemade Bean-to-Bar Chocolate is HARD...